Behind the scenes ｜ November big black horse! Make a name for yourself broke 600 million yuan, don’t ignore it.

Special feature of 1905 film network "If this movie is successful, let’s make a name for ourselves!" A line in the movie shines into reality outside the play.As of press time, the total box office has exceeded 600 million, and the Douban score has reached 7.6 points, making it the most complete dark horse after the National Day file.

The film won favorable comments with its black humor and suspense reversal, and the unique retro style of the Republic of China also left a deep impression on the audience.

The charm of cheongsam, the dazzling dress, the exquisite suit and the combination of Chinese and western styles of mandarin jackets, what kind of design and ingenuity are hidden behind the set of styles of "Make a Famous Name", let us follow Qu Luzhen, the fashion modeling guide, and walk behind the scenes of the film.

"makeup articles"

Makeup reflects the character’s heart.

　

Qu Luzhen introduced that the work of film costume modeling guidance is mainly divided into two parts: costume and makeup, which complement each other and jointly serve the actors in shaping characters. Hair and makeup are exquisite or decadent, reflecting the psychological state of the characters.

Take Li Jiahui, the leading actor, as an example. He is an excluded film critic, and his heart is decadent and depressed, so he can only drown his sorrows in wine.

In hair design, Qu Luzhen kept Yin Zheng’s original long hair, added some textures, and deliberately used gel to create a greasy feeling of not washing her hair for several days.

The makeup also deepens the skin color and adds yellow, plus a full face of stubble, which highlights the vicissitudes of the characters and the state of untidiness."Andrew himself said that putting on makeup every day is like drinking too much, and the characters come out when they feel it, and they are instantly in the play," Qu Luzhen said.

In sharp contrast with Li Jiahui, the key word of Guan Jingnian, who plays a dead star, is "exquisiteness"."The hairstyle we designed for him is 28 points, and we also designed a pair.moustachesonBut each of his beards is neatly trimmed, and you can see this detail when you take a close-up. "

　

Qu Luzhen also designed a signature action for Guan Jingnian — — Comb his hair with a small comb from time to time. "The more he cares about his appearance, the more he shows that he has no confidence and can only dress himself up by external attire."

The two female characters in the film, Su Mengdie and Nightingale, one is a amorous female star, the other is a young singer, and they also have their own characteristics in makeup and hairstyle.

　

"Su Mengdie is a standard movie star of the Republic of China, with flaming lips and curved arch eyebrows. The makeup of the nightingale is mainly solid color. Although it is also very delicate, it is necessary to maintain her innocence."

In terms of hair style design, Qu Luzhen chose the most representative combination of hand-pushed ripple and curly hair for Su Mengdie in the Republic of China. "It is completely made of her own hair, and it takes her the longest time to dress and shape every day, which takes two hours."

　

Nightingale’s hair style is more varied, from the beginning of the student dress up to the first stage, and then to become a flower-based, and the hairstyle has also changed from a pure and lovely bobhead to a fashionable and retro hand-waving ripple.

"men’s articles"

Combination of Chinese and western, exquisite details

　

"I quite like the styling of the Republic of China, when the style of clothing was combined with Chinese and western styles, which was influenced by the West and retained the characteristics of the East," Qu Luzhen said.

　

The eight main male characters, including wealthy businessmen, stars and actors, as well as policemen, directors and journalists, have different identities and personalities, and their clothes have their own styles.

Li Jiahui, a down-and-out film critic, is a baggy camel-colored sweater, which is deliberately designed not to fit well enough, and there are still many traces of being worn out, as if it had not been washed for many days. There is a hip flask in the pocket all the time, and the place where the pen is placed on the chest leaves a black mark, highlighting the decadent state of the characters.

　

The loose blouse is in sharp contrast with the turtleneck shirt inside, which is also the detail specially designed by Qu Luzhen. "The sweater is baggy and looks sloppy, but he is very firm at heart, so I designed him a turtleneck shirt with tight buttons, which means that he has his own ideas and a set of his own code of conduct."

Guan Jingnian’s identity is a former film emperor, and he is naturally more particular about his clothes. "He has always had a superstar’s heart and cares about his image all the time, so he designed such a set of shapes."

　

Exaggerated woolen coat, elegant three-piece suit and complicated patterns on vest all reflect his vanity mentality of being unwilling to lag behind and saving face, especially his unique necktie and corsage, which makes him suddenly open the gap with others in temperament.

Lu Ziye, as the name implies, is a wealthy businessman with unpredictable style. In terms of modeling, Qu Luzhen also mixes Chinese and Western costumes.

　

"The upper body is a robe and jacket, and the lower body is trousers and leather shoes. This was the most successful suit combining Chinese and Western at that time. The color is dark purple and coffee, and a lot of fine lines are added, which is heavy and textured, which is in line with his identity. "

Careful observation will also reveal that Lu Ziye’s jacket is embroidered with bamboo patterns, and his left chest is still hung with a pocket watch. Qu Luzhen explained: "Although Lu Ziye is usually careless, he is still very afraid of death. There is a word called’ Bamboo Report Peace’, so I designed a bamboo embroidery for him to symbolize his inner thoughts."

　

"As for pocket watches, the most obvious accessories of rich and powerful people at that time were pocket watches, fingers and pipes, which symbolized his identity and status."

　

If Lu Ziye’s modeling is a fusion of Chinese and western styles, then Chen Xiaoda, a former Hollywood stuntman, has a strong American style.

　

Bell bottoms, pointed leather shoes, and western cowboy hat accessories on the chest are all full of American flavor. "These may be what he brought back from there and the traces left by that experience."

　

Due to Chen Xiaoda’s many action scenes and the bridge section where Weiya is hung, the costume team specially prepared three sets of costumes and chose a fabric with high elasticity. "No matter how this fabric jumps, it will not affect his activities, because he is an action superstar."

　

"ladies’ articles"

Graceful Cheongsam and Crystal Garments

　

Speaking of fashion in the Republic of China, cheongsam is a classic element that cannot be avoided. In the movie, Su Mengdie’s dark blue cheongsam outlines her graceful curve, which is charming and impressive.

　

Qu Luzhen designed a total of 10 sets of cheongsam for Su Mengdie, and finally chose the one with the best style and color. "You can’t jump too much, and you can’t be too deep. This Kong Quelan echoes the background and the overall tone."

Cheongsam pays attention to tailoring, and Su Mengdie’s body is no exception. "In order to highlight the perfect figure, we make the waist and hip line more fit with special tailoring, and we can see her perfect curve from both the front and the side."

　

In order to facilitate the actors’ activities and performances, Qu Luzhen also specially designed two cheongsam of the same paragraph and different types, one for standing posture and the other for sitting posture.

　

"If the cheongsam fits well, it looks good standing, but sitting will be restricted, and performance and breathing will be very uncomfortable, so we let go of the waist on the other one so that she can look good when sitting."

Although the nightingale played is not much, she has experienced the identity change from a student to a flower head, and her clothes are more diverse.

　

From the initial student dress to plain dress, to the fluffy skirt that appeared on the stage, and finally to the gorgeous dress that won the championship, the costumes reflect the psychological changes of the characters from innocence to maturity.

Among them, Qu Luzhen devoted the most effort to the high-definition dress when the nightingale won the lottery. The embellishment of crystals and pearls was done by hand, which was exquisite and extraordinary, and the weight was amazing.

　

When the host Roman tried it on the spot, he couldn’t help but sigh that the weight of this Chinese costume was several times that of the red carpet dress he usually wore, but the magic thing is that wearing such a heavy dress can still move freely and there will be no knots between crystals.

Qu Luzhen explained that because the nightingale has the scene of climbing the ventilation pipe, she specially considered the activity in the design, "the collection and the release", and also paid special attention to the gap between the crystal decorations, even if the movement is great, it will not knot.

Taking both beauty and practicality into consideration has always been the criterion of film costume design, but the most important thing is to start from the role and serve the story and characters with modeling.

Every piece of clothing and every detail has been devoted to the efforts of the stylist, and will remain in the hearts of the audience with the film "making a name for itself".